Ekodeck Composite Decking

Very little. One of the biggest advantages of composite decking over timber is the reduced upkeep. You don’t need to sand, oil, stain or paint composite boards to keep them protected. There’s no annual weekend lost to re-coating the deck, and no worrying about whether you’ve sealed it properly before the wet season.

For most homes, a simple sweep to remove leaves and dirt plus an occasional wash with mild soapy water is all that’s required. A soft brush or broom is usually enough to lift off any surface grime. Because the boards don’t absorb water like timber, you’re not trying to “feed” the deck with oil to stop it drying out and cracking – the material is stable by design. As long as you keep the surface reasonably clean and avoid harsh solvents or high-pressure blasting directly onto the board face, your composite deck will stay looking good with minimal effort.

A well-made composite deck can easily last 25 years or more, which is why many premium brands come with long residential warranties. The boards are engineered to resist the main issues that shorten the life of a traditional timber deck – things like rot, moisture damage, insect attack and warping. Instead of relying on coatings and treatments, the durability is built into the core of the product.

In day-to-day use, that means your deck is far less likely to cup, split, or sag over time, even with strong sun and heavy rain. You won’t have boards rotting from the underside or losing strength if they get damp. As long as the deck is installed correctly on a suitable subframe (like an aluminium Clickdeck system or properly built joists), and you follow the basic care guidelines, you can expect decades of solid, low-stress use from a composite deck.

Modern composite decking is designed to be highly fade-resistant. Quality boards are UV-stabilised and often capped with a protective shell layer, so the colour change over time is minimal compared with natural timber. Most brands will note a slight “settling” of colour in the first few months as the boards weather, but after that the shade stays very stable for years. You don’t get the heavy greying, patchiness or peeling you see in unmaintained timber decks.

In terms of scratching, composite boards are built to handle normal everyday use – people walking, outdoor furniture, kids playing and pets running around. The textured cap helps disguise small marks, and the material itself is generally tougher than a painted or stained timber surface. That said, no surface is completely scratch-proof. Dragging very heavy, sharp or metal items across the boards can mark them, just like it would on tiles or hardwood. Using furniture pads, lifting items instead of scraping them, and keeping grit off the deck will go a long way to keeping the surface looking fresh.

Yes – composite decking is very family-friendly. Because the boards don’t splinter, they’re much nicer under bare feet and paws than aging timber. You don’t have to worry about kids picking up sharp splinters, or dogs getting bits of wood stuck in their pads. Most composite profiles also include a slip-resistant texture, which helps with grip when the deck is damp or when little ones are running around after a swim.

Another safety benefit is the way composite systems are usually installed. Hidden fasteners mean there are no exposed screws or nails on the surface, so there’s nothing to catch toes or cause trip hazards. Composites also don’t leach oils or treatments like some timbers can, so you avoid tracking greasy marks inside. As with any deck, basic care – like cleaning up spills, keeping the surface free of clutter, and supervising young children near edges or stairs – will help keep the space safe and comfortable for everyone.

Like any outdoor surface, composite decking will warm up in full sun – especially in the middle of an Australian summer. Darker colours absorb more heat, so a deep charcoal board will feel hotter underfoot than a light grey or sandy tone, just like dark pavers or tiles. The good news is that most modern composites are designed to manage heat reasonably well, and many ranges include lighter colours specifically to keep decks more comfortable.

If heat is a concern, there are a few simple things you can do. Choosing a lighter-coloured board will make a noticeable difference, particularly around pools or north-facing decks. Adding shade (like a pergola, umbrella or awning) also helps keep the surface temperature down and makes the whole space more usable on hot days. For very exposed areas, some homeowners consider advanced PVC-based boards that include “cooler underfoot” technology. In practice, most people find composite decks perfectly manageable with normal summer footwear and a bit of thoughtful design.

Traditional composite decking is usually made from a mix of wood fibres and recycled plastics (often called WPC – wood-plastic composite). It’s designed to look and feel like timber while improving durability and reducing maintenance. PVC decking, on the other hand, contains no wood at all. It’s made from 100% engineered plastic (usually a high-grade PVC) and often capped with an extra protective layer. Because there’s no organic material in PVC, it can be even more resistant to moisture, rot and insect attack.

In practical terms, both options are low-maintenance and long-lasting, but PVC decking tends to offer the best performance in very wet or harsh environments and can run cooler underfoot in some products. Composite WPC boards usually provide a slightly more “timber-like” feel and can be more cost-effective, with a huge choice of colours and textures. The best option for you depends on budget, look, and how exposed your deck will be – the good news is that both types are compatible with modern subframes like the Clickdeck system.

Composite decking should not be laid directly on soil or grass. The boards need to be supported on an appropriate subframe that keeps them off the ground, allows drainage and provides good ventilation underneath. Sitting composite boards directly on damp ground can trap moisture, reduce airflow, and void manufacturer warranties – even though the boards themselves don’t rot like timber.

Over concrete, you still need to create a proper subframe or batten system. This can be done using treated timber joists or, even better, a purpose-designed aluminium system like Clickdeck. The subframe raises the boards slightly, allows water to run off and gives you a flat, stable surface to fix into. On balconies, rooftops and old slabs, adjustable pedestals or spacers can be used under the frame to achieve perfect levels. The key is following the span and support guidelines for the brand of decking you’re using, so the deck feels solid underfoot and performs long-term.

Upfront, composite decking usually costs more per lineal metre than entry-level softwood options like treated pine, and sits closer to – or above – many hardwoods. However, the initial material price only tells part of the story. Timber decks require ongoing spending on oils, stains, paints, brushes and sometimes replacement boards, plus the time or labour cost to keep them maintained. Those maintenance cycles come around regularly, especially in exposed areas.

With composite decking, almost all of that ongoing cost disappears. There’s no need to buy coating products, hire sanders, or pay someone to re-finish the deck every couple of years. The boards are designed to hold their colour and structural integrity with simple cleaning. Over the life of the deck, many homeowners find that composites actually work out cheaper than timber once you factor in maintenance, wasted products, and time. You also get the peace of mind of a longer warranty and more predictable performance, which is hard to put a price on.

In most cases, you can work with composite decking using the same basic tools you’d use for timber: a circular saw or mitre saw with a good quality blade, a drill/driver, tape measure, level and clamps. The material is easy to cut and drill, and you can notch or scribe boards much like you would with wood. Many decking systems use hidden clips that fit into grooves on the side of the boards, which makes installation neat and straightforward.

The main differences are in the fixing systems and spacing requirements. Composite boards expand and contract a little differently to timber, so it’s important to follow the specific installation instructions for the brand you’re using – particularly for end gaps and spacing. When combined with a modern aluminium subframe like Clickdeck, installation can actually be faster than a traditional deck because the frame is pre-engineered and the boards simply clip into place. If you’re comfortable with basic carpentry, composite decking is very DIY-friendly; otherwise, any experienced deck installer will be familiar with the process.

Most composite decking boards are designed with a textured surface that provides good grip, even when the deck is wet. This makes them very suitable for pool surrounds, spa areas and other spots that regularly see water. Many brands test and publish slip ratings for their boards, so you can check the numbers if you need to meet a particular standard – especially in commercial applications or multi-residential projects.

As with any surface, basic housekeeping makes a difference. Keeping the deck free of built-up algae, sunscreen spills and leaf litter will help maintain traction. Light-coloured, matte-finished boards often perform very well in wet areas because they combine lower heat build-up with a finer texture. When you pair composite decking with a properly drained subframe (like an aluminium Clickdeck system that allows water to run off cleanly), you end up with a stable, slip-resistant surface that’s ideal for families and entertaining around water.